- Home
- Beyond California
- A Vinous Adventure in Colorado’s Rockies
A Vinous Adventure in Colorado’s Rockies
- By Dan Clarke
- Published 06/16/2005
- Beyond California
Dan Clarke
California Wine Press publishes two internet magazines.
www.californiawineandfood.com (CWF) addresses the interests of restaurant and hospitality professionals.
Your kind comments have been much appreciated. Thank you. You may contact us at info@californiawineandfood.com
Regards,
Dan Clarke, Publisher
Californians can get a little smug. The climate is good and the livin’ is easy. Serviceable winegrapes are grown everywhere, even in the hottest parts of the San Joaquin Valley. Over the last few decades California’s wine industry has been making ever better products as it continues to discover the best growing sites for nearly all of the world’s premium varieties.
But whatever its advantages, California isn’t the only place in America to make fine wine. The efforts of Oregon and Washington are well known, but other states in the West are worth notice, too. Recent trips to Texas and Colorado were revelations.
Last week I joined a group of journalists in exploring Colorado’s wine and food. Other than plane transfers at Denver’s airport over the years, it was my first experience in the state. While five days doesn’t make me an expert on anything Coloradan, the experience gave me a deep respect for the wine and food community there. Today and in the weeks to come we’ll bring you reports on some of those experiences.
Background
The history of grapegrowing and winemaking in Colorado actually goes back quite a while as grapes were planted in the western part of the state in the latter part of the 19th Century and wine production was acknowledged and recorded in 1899. Prohibition effectively killed Colorado’s wine industry, however, and its modern history dates back only to 1968 with the founding of Ivancie Winery. At present there are over 50 wineries, with an average of three new ones opening each recent year. Most of the vineyards are planted at elevations between 4,000 and 7,000 feet in the western part of the state, which is famed for its fruit growing capabilities. Some of these wines are “fruit wines,” that is to say, made from fruits other than grapes. Others are hybrids such as Chambourcin and Marshall Foch, but most are traditional vitis vinifera winegrapes. Colorado wines may show the collective “Colorado” origin on their labels or may indicate the more specific origins of either of the two federally defined American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), the Grand Valley of the Colorado River, or the West Elks along the North Fork of the Gunnison River. Most of the wineries are small-production, family operations.
A few wines I encountered were of less than commercial quality. Others were interesting, if not identical to the same varieties as grown in Europe or the New World. And some were very good by any standard. My group tasted in various circumstances. Some of the time we sampled wines just as any other tourists might when dropping in at winery tasting rooms. On other occasions we enjoyed one or more wines as paired with multi-course meals.
Johnson & Wales University is one of the best schools in the country for hospitality and the culinary arts. Headquartered in Providence, Rhode Island, they took over what was once the campus of the Colorado College for Women in Denver about five years ago. It was there that our group had an introduction to Colorado wines at a luncheon hosted by the school. Doug Caskey, Executive Director of the Colorado Wine Board, gave us an overview of the history of Colorado wines. Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey gained a national reputation first at Little Nell in Aspen and later at the French Laundry in the Napa Valley before opening his own restaurant, Frasca, in Boulder. He offered his thoughts on the rapid improvement in the state’s wines and how they fit into a philosophy of serving the best indigenous products. Max Ariza, a personable Frenchman who carries the title Professor of Wine at Johnson & Wales, has considerable experience in the area, which includes a stint as sommelier for Denver’s prestigious Brown Palace Hotel. Max and his staff produced a great meal—the first of several we would enjoy on the trip (see below). In subsequent weeks we’ll report on the Colorado wine scene in greater detail.
Colorado Wine Luncheon
Johnson & Wales University
June 7th, 2005
Reception
Amuse Bouche
Crooked Creek Winery Dry Riesling 2003 (McElmo Canyon)
First Course
A Warm Porcini and Boulder Haystack Goat Cheese Tart
Chardonnay Bookcliff 2003 (Grand Valley)
Second Course
Fresh Greens from Colorado
J.A. Balistreri Vineyards Muscat
Third Course
Colorado Lamb Chops Roasted with a Syrah Demiglace
(Rosemary Polenta and Colorado Asparagus)
J.A. Balistreri Syrah (Grand Valley)
Guy Drew vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (McElmo Canyon)
Fourth Course
Palisade Peach Custard
Viognier late harvest Bookcliff (Grand Valley)
But whatever its advantages, California isn’t the only place in America to make fine wine. The efforts of Oregon and Washington are well known, but other states in the West are worth notice, too. Recent trips to Texas and Colorado were revelations.
Last week I joined a group of journalists in exploring Colorado’s wine and food. Other than plane transfers at Denver’s airport over the years, it was my first experience in the state. While five days doesn’t make me an expert on anything Coloradan, the experience gave me a deep respect for the wine and food community there. Today and in the weeks to come we’ll bring you reports on some of those experiences.
Background
The history of grapegrowing and winemaking in Colorado actually goes back quite a while as grapes were planted in the western part of the state in the latter part of the 19th Century and wine production was acknowledged and recorded in 1899. Prohibition effectively killed Colorado’s wine industry, however, and its modern history dates back only to 1968 with the founding of Ivancie Winery. At present there are over 50 wineries, with an average of three new ones opening each recent year. Most of the vineyards are planted at elevations between 4,000 and 7,000 feet in the western part of the state, which is famed for its fruit growing capabilities. Some of these wines are “fruit wines,” that is to say, made from fruits other than grapes. Others are hybrids such as Chambourcin and Marshall Foch, but most are traditional vitis vinifera winegrapes. Colorado wines may show the collective “Colorado” origin on their labels or may indicate the more specific origins of either of the two federally defined American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), the Grand Valley of the Colorado River, or the West Elks along the North Fork of the Gunnison River. Most of the wineries are small-production, family operations.
A few wines I encountered were of less than commercial quality. Others were interesting, if not identical to the same varieties as grown in Europe or the New World. And some were very good by any standard. My group tasted in various circumstances. Some of the time we sampled wines just as any other tourists might when dropping in at winery tasting rooms. On other occasions we enjoyed one or more wines as paired with multi-course meals.
Johnson & Wales University is one of the best schools in the country for hospitality and the culinary arts. Headquartered in Providence, Rhode Island, they took over what was once the campus of the Colorado College for Women in Denver about five years ago. It was there that our group had an introduction to Colorado wines at a luncheon hosted by the school. Doug Caskey, Executive Director of the Colorado Wine Board, gave us an overview of the history of Colorado wines. Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey gained a national reputation first at Little Nell in Aspen and later at the French Laundry in the Napa Valley before opening his own restaurant, Frasca, in Boulder. He offered his thoughts on the rapid improvement in the state’s wines and how they fit into a philosophy of serving the best indigenous products. Max Ariza, a personable Frenchman who carries the title Professor of Wine at Johnson & Wales, has considerable experience in the area, which includes a stint as sommelier for Denver’s prestigious Brown Palace Hotel. Max and his staff produced a great meal—the first of several we would enjoy on the trip (see below). In subsequent weeks we’ll report on the Colorado wine scene in greater detail.
Colorado Wine Luncheon
Johnson & Wales University
June 7th, 2005
Reception
Amuse Bouche
Crooked Creek Winery Dry Riesling 2003 (McElmo Canyon)
First Course
A Warm Porcini and Boulder Haystack Goat Cheese Tart
Chardonnay Bookcliff 2003 (Grand Valley)
Second Course
Fresh Greens from Colorado
J.A. Balistreri Vineyards Muscat
Third Course
Colorado Lamb Chops Roasted with a Syrah Demiglace
(Rosemary Polenta and Colorado Asparagus)
J.A. Balistreri Syrah (Grand Valley)
Guy Drew vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (McElmo Canyon)
Fourth Course
Palisade Peach Custard
Viognier late harvest Bookcliff (Grand Valley)