Nine sommeliers from some of the top restaurants in the country, including David Reardon of Santa Barbara's Bacara Resort, Shannon Ronalds of The Peninsula Beverly Hills, and Matthew Turner, Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay, visited the Champagne region of France recently to attend workshops and champagne tastings that concentrated on the Dom Perignon brand.

The visit, sponsored by the Union de Maison de Champagne, included a dinner at Chateau de Saran with Dom Perignon Chef de Cave (Chief Wine Maker) Richard Geoffroy, an inspection of the Dom Perignon cellars in Epernay, a visit to the Abbey in Hautvillers, where Dom Perignon created the first champagne, and a special Dom Perignon tasting at Refectoire Des Moines, also in Hautvillers.

Under a hot French sun, the California sommeliers were taken to a vineyard near the historic Champagne village of Saran, where the company Moet & Chandon grows its famous chardonnay grapes, one of two grape varietals that make up the Dom Perignon brand. The sommeliers learned about the art of producing champagne, how and why vintage years are determined, and how the grapes are protected against disease, drought, and unusual cold weather. Pruning techniques were demonstrated, and a lunch was provided in the rustic "pickers" shed at the edge of the vineyard. Although the grape harvest is still two to three months away, the vineyards are tended to year-round by a small group of local workers.

Matt Turner and David Reardon both agreed that the two-day visit to the Champagne region of France was a great educational experience. They especially enjoyed the private meeting with Monsieur Geoffroy, the man responsible for determining what year's harvest will become a Dom Perignon vintage.

Shannon Ronalds said it was important for sommeliers to know as much about the production of champagne as taste differences among brands, since his customers are ordering champagne not only for celebratory dinners, but to go with lunch and desserts. "In Beverly Hills people order champagne for breakfast," he said half-jokingly. "I need to know which years are the best, and why, because my customers really love a good champagne, and don't seem to mind the cost."

Ron Bernthal is a professor of Business at Sullivan County Community College in Loch Sheldrake, N.Y. He also writes and produces travel and culinary stories for "Borders," a weekly program heard on NPR station WJFF with listeners in NY, PA, and NJ. His freelance print articles have appeared in numerous newspapers and trade publications. He accommpanied the sommeliers during their educational workshops in the Champagne region.