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Colorado – The Wines of the West Elks AVA
- By Dan Clarke
- Published 07/28/2005
- Beyond California
Dan Clarke
California Wine Press publishes two internet magazines.
www.californiawineandfood.com (CWF) addresses the interests of restaurant and hospitality professionals.
Your kind comments have been much appreciated. Thank you. You may contact us at info@californiawineandfood.com
Regards,
Dan Clarke, Publisher
Nearly all of Colorado’s grape growing happens on what is known as the Western Slope in that part of the state near the Utah border. The Grand Valley and West Elks AVAs are there. These grapegrowing regions, recognized by the federal government and more formally known as American Viticultural Areas, are the U.S. equivalents of European appellations. Last week we reported on the larger of them, Grand Valley, which is just east of the city of Grand Junction (http://www.californiawineandfood.com/wine/colorado-wines-3.htm).
Leaving the Two Rivers Vineyard Chateau in Grand Junction, we drove southeast through Delta County and into the county of Montrose, where we visited Cottonwood Cellars. Like most Colorado wineries, it is a small-production, family affair. Even smaller was neighboring Mountain View Winery, which poured its offerings for us at the same Cottonwood location just outside the farming town of Olathe.
Cottonwood Cellars produces Chardonnay, Riesling and a Dry Gewürztraminer, among their whites. They make a Lemberger and produce Cabernet Sauvignon, including a reserve designation. Mountain View produces vinifera wines also, but we enjoyed his fruit wines.
Leaving Olathe, we traveled back in the direction of Grand Junction, turning eastward at the town of Delta as we headed toward the West Elks area. As we gained elevation, the scenery became more interesting. The developing dark clouds added to the feeling we were entering a more rugged, remote land. After some time on winding, narrow roads we drove through the community of Cedaredge.
Soon we were on Happy Hollow Road, turning into the driveway of Stoney Mesa Winery. Founder Ron Neal was on hand to greet us. The vineyards were established in 1990 and Stoney Mesa released their first wine five years later. Ron’s son, Bret Neal, has been in charge of the vineyards since 1993 and took over winemaking chores in 1999.
A fresh and fruity 2003 barrel-fermented Chardonnay wasn’t bad and I liked the 2004 Gewürztraminer, a solid effort with good aromatics. At 3% residual sugar it wasn’t overly sweet. Quite a treat was a late harvest 2004 Muscat. This desert wine is put up in 375ml bottles and retails for $15.99. The Neals are serious farmers and appear to be making progress in what is still a very young grapegrowing and winemaking industry. A much newer winery from the area, Surface Creek, also poured samples and we found a non-vintage blend of Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, dubbed “Columbine White,” to be palatable.
Departing Stoney Mesa for our next stop, we notice the skies are threatening rain. Dark clouds above the nearer aspects of the Rockies have an awesome beauty. We pass some Llamas by the side of the road and for just a moment I wonder if we’re in the Andes.
Jack Rabbit Hill is located near Hotchkiss at 6200 feet elevation. Lance and Anna Hanson have planted 16 acres of grapes thus far on their 70-acre property. They’ve moved from California to begin their winemaking venture in land that’s beautiful, but surely challenging as vineyard country. Several Pinot Noir clones have been planted, as well as Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Riesling and Malbec. The Hansons have also planted hybrids such as Foch, Vignol and Chambourcin as a hedge against the possibility of catastrophic weather than might wipe out the less hardy vinifera grapes at some future harvest. Theirs are the only certified-organic vineyards in Colorado. Plans for the future include growing to 8-10,000 case per year production and the possibility of becoming a certified biodynamic operation. As we arrived for our late afternoon tasting two carpenters were just finishing for the day. They’d been working a building planned to hold a still for producing organic brandy.
We tasted just a few wines from this young and innovative operation. Barn Red 2003, was a blend of Foch and Chambourcin made in Beaujolais style. Unusual by several definitions, this medium-bodied red was a wine we enjoyed. Two samples of unreleased wines were tasted also, both from the 2004 vintage. “Upper East Side” is a Chardonnay/Riesling blend and “Hail Mary,” a Pinot Noir not destroyed by the hailstorm that hit during last year’s harvest.
In the waning hours of a very busy day we traveled to Orchard Valley Farms, also the home of the new Blackbridge Winery. The area was wooded and the North Fork of the Gunnison River ran swiftly past the parking area. Fresh air, beautiful scenery, snacks and nice folks to greet us--the only way I could have been happier was if they announced that trout fishing was an integral part of their afternoon wine tasting ritual. The venue seemed to be part food store, part tasting bar and a broad selection of wines from the area were available to us. Beautiful though the area was, it didn’t remind me of Burgundy or any of the California appellations famed for their Pinot Noir. Intrigued, I gravitated toward a couple of West Elks examples from the 2003 vintage, the S. Rhodes Vineyards and Alfred Eames Cellars Pinot Noirs. I got wrapped up in conversation with the locals (and with sampling a variety of cheeses made at a neighbor’s goat dairy). Only when it was time to head to check-in at the LeRoux Creek Vineyards B&B did I realized my wine tasting and analysis had been less than comprehensive. Not to worry, folks assured me. There’d be plenty of their wines at dinner that night.
It was easy to like these people.
The Flying Fork
You might expect to have good food when dining at a respected culinary school (Johnson & Wales) and one of the best hotels in the country (the Brown Palace), as we did when we were in Denver. Not having been to the Grand Junction, I didn’t know what to expect, but was pleasantly surprised by great catered hors d’oeuvres at Two Rivers Vineyard and lunches and dinners from an Italian restaurant and French bistro in that city.
But at least I’d heard of Grand Junction. Our last day we went through places like Olathe, Eckert, and Hotchkiss. The area seemed sparsely populated, at least to a visitor from congested California. And we were going to dinner in someplace called Paonia. Well, I’d had some great meals back home in places like Boonville, Casmalia, Calistoga and Geyserville—all small, if not obscure, spots in California’s wine country . . .
I needn’t have worried. We had a wonderful meal in Paonia at the Flying Fork Café (www.flyingforkcafe.com). Yvon Gros, owner of LeRoux Creek Inn, drove us over to the restaurant. Writers, growers and winemakers gathered at dusk in a garden behind the restaurant. Servers circulated with trays of pizzetta and bruschetta. We enjoyed these with reception wines from Terror Creek (Pinot Gris and Riesling) and Stone Cottage Cellars (Chardonnay). Chef-owner Kelly Steinmetz’ menu may be more Italian influenced, but the garden had a Provençal feel. It was a delightful beginning to a most convivial evening.
On the back of the evening’s menu I wrote the names of the wines I remembered trying that night. There may have been others I missed. My table had several just-opened bottles when we were seated. Many more passed our way as winemakers at other tables forwarded some of their own favorites (see list at end of accompanying menu). I took no specific tasting notes. It was not a time to be a stenographer or an auditor. I thought it better to just enjoy the moment. I can report that I tasted nothing I disliked and found that Pinot Noir, Merlot and a Bordeaux-blend from the West Elks appellation all worked very well with the elk.
After a too-brief stay at LeRoux Creek, we scribes headed for the Grand Junction Airport and a flight back to Denver International for connections to Vermont, Kansas, Texas, and even California. The visit to Delta and Montrose Counties and the West Elks AVA was a revelation. Food and wine consciousness there is deep indeed (LINK see book review of At Mesa’s Edge) and artisan producers in both categories are the evidence.
Flying Fork Café
Paonia, Colorado
June 9, 2005
Pizzetta
Rosemary Flat Bread // Roasted Garlic
Triple Cream Imported Cambazola Cheese
AppleWood Smoked Pheasant // Roma Tomatoes // Fontina Cheese
Bruschetta
Creamy Gorgonzola Dolce // Caramelized Onions // Balsamic Vinegar
Insalate
Organic Field Greens
Roma Tomatoes // Cucumbers // Red Onion
Shaved Parmesan Reggiano
Lemon Thyme Dressing
Entrate
Mustard Seed Encrusted Elk Loin
Gewurztraminer / Demi Glace Reduction with Tart Cherries
Mashed Sweet Yams // Sugar Snap Peas
Dolcetto
Tirimisu
Organic Sumatra // Tazo Tea
Wines:
Terror Creek Pinot Gris 2003, Stone Cottage Cellars Chardonnay 2003, Terror Creek Riesling 2002,
S. Rhodes Emilia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2003, S. Rhodes Estate Bottled Ellie’s Merlot 2001,
Alfred Eames Pinot Noir 2003, Alfred Eames Menage, S. Rhodes Merlot 2002, Stone Creek Cellars Alpine Desert Wine 2003
Leaving the Two Rivers Vineyard Chateau in Grand Junction, we drove southeast through Delta County and into the county of Montrose, where we visited Cottonwood Cellars. Like most Colorado wineries, it is a small-production, family affair. Even smaller was neighboring Mountain View Winery, which poured its offerings for us at the same Cottonwood location just outside the farming town of Olathe.
Cottonwood Cellars produces Chardonnay, Riesling and a Dry Gewürztraminer, among their whites. They make a Lemberger and produce Cabernet Sauvignon, including a reserve designation. Mountain View produces vinifera wines also, but we enjoyed his fruit wines.
Leaving Olathe, we traveled back in the direction of Grand Junction, turning eastward at the town of Delta as we headed toward the West Elks area. As we gained elevation, the scenery became more interesting. The developing dark clouds added to the feeling we were entering a more rugged, remote land. After some time on winding, narrow roads we drove through the community of Cedaredge.
Soon we were on Happy Hollow Road, turning into the driveway of Stoney Mesa Winery. Founder Ron Neal was on hand to greet us. The vineyards were established in 1990 and Stoney Mesa released their first wine five years later. Ron’s son, Bret Neal, has been in charge of the vineyards since 1993 and took over winemaking chores in 1999.
A fresh and fruity 2003 barrel-fermented Chardonnay wasn’t bad and I liked the 2004 Gewürztraminer, a solid effort with good aromatics. At 3% residual sugar it wasn’t overly sweet. Quite a treat was a late harvest 2004 Muscat. This desert wine is put up in 375ml bottles and retails for $15.99. The Neals are serious farmers and appear to be making progress in what is still a very young grapegrowing and winemaking industry. A much newer winery from the area, Surface Creek, also poured samples and we found a non-vintage blend of Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer, dubbed “Columbine White,” to be palatable.
Departing Stoney Mesa for our next stop, we notice the skies are threatening rain. Dark clouds above the nearer aspects of the Rockies have an awesome beauty. We pass some Llamas by the side of the road and for just a moment I wonder if we’re in the Andes.
Jack Rabbit Hill is located near Hotchkiss at 6200 feet elevation. Lance and Anna Hanson have planted 16 acres of grapes thus far on their 70-acre property. They’ve moved from California to begin their winemaking venture in land that’s beautiful, but surely challenging as vineyard country. Several Pinot Noir clones have been planted, as well as Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Riesling and Malbec. The Hansons have also planted hybrids such as Foch, Vignol and Chambourcin as a hedge against the possibility of catastrophic weather than might wipe out the less hardy vinifera grapes at some future harvest. Theirs are the only certified-organic vineyards in Colorado. Plans for the future include growing to 8-10,000 case per year production and the possibility of becoming a certified biodynamic operation. As we arrived for our late afternoon tasting two carpenters were just finishing for the day. They’d been working a building planned to hold a still for producing organic brandy.
We tasted just a few wines from this young and innovative operation. Barn Red 2003, was a blend of Foch and Chambourcin made in Beaujolais style. Unusual by several definitions, this medium-bodied red was a wine we enjoyed. Two samples of unreleased wines were tasted also, both from the 2004 vintage. “Upper East Side” is a Chardonnay/Riesling blend and “Hail Mary,” a Pinot Noir not destroyed by the hailstorm that hit during last year’s harvest.
In the waning hours of a very busy day we traveled to Orchard Valley Farms, also the home of the new Blackbridge Winery. The area was wooded and the North Fork of the Gunnison River ran swiftly past the parking area. Fresh air, beautiful scenery, snacks and nice folks to greet us--the only way I could have been happier was if they announced that trout fishing was an integral part of their afternoon wine tasting ritual. The venue seemed to be part food store, part tasting bar and a broad selection of wines from the area were available to us. Beautiful though the area was, it didn’t remind me of Burgundy or any of the California appellations famed for their Pinot Noir. Intrigued, I gravitated toward a couple of West Elks examples from the 2003 vintage, the S. Rhodes Vineyards and Alfred Eames Cellars Pinot Noirs. I got wrapped up in conversation with the locals (and with sampling a variety of cheeses made at a neighbor’s goat dairy). Only when it was time to head to check-in at the LeRoux Creek Vineyards B&B did I realized my wine tasting and analysis had been less than comprehensive. Not to worry, folks assured me. There’d be plenty of their wines at dinner that night.
It was easy to like these people.
The Flying Fork
You might expect to have good food when dining at a respected culinary school (Johnson & Wales) and one of the best hotels in the country (the Brown Palace), as we did when we were in Denver. Not having been to the Grand Junction, I didn’t know what to expect, but was pleasantly surprised by great catered hors d’oeuvres at Two Rivers Vineyard and lunches and dinners from an Italian restaurant and French bistro in that city.
But at least I’d heard of Grand Junction. Our last day we went through places like Olathe, Eckert, and Hotchkiss. The area seemed sparsely populated, at least to a visitor from congested California. And we were going to dinner in someplace called Paonia. Well, I’d had some great meals back home in places like Boonville, Casmalia, Calistoga and Geyserville—all small, if not obscure, spots in California’s wine country . . .
I needn’t have worried. We had a wonderful meal in Paonia at the Flying Fork Café (www.flyingforkcafe.com). Yvon Gros, owner of LeRoux Creek Inn, drove us over to the restaurant. Writers, growers and winemakers gathered at dusk in a garden behind the restaurant. Servers circulated with trays of pizzetta and bruschetta. We enjoyed these with reception wines from Terror Creek (Pinot Gris and Riesling) and Stone Cottage Cellars (Chardonnay). Chef-owner Kelly Steinmetz’ menu may be more Italian influenced, but the garden had a Provençal feel. It was a delightful beginning to a most convivial evening.
On the back of the evening’s menu I wrote the names of the wines I remembered trying that night. There may have been others I missed. My table had several just-opened bottles when we were seated. Many more passed our way as winemakers at other tables forwarded some of their own favorites (see list at end of accompanying menu). I took no specific tasting notes. It was not a time to be a stenographer or an auditor. I thought it better to just enjoy the moment. I can report that I tasted nothing I disliked and found that Pinot Noir, Merlot and a Bordeaux-blend from the West Elks appellation all worked very well with the elk.
After a too-brief stay at LeRoux Creek, we scribes headed for the Grand Junction Airport and a flight back to Denver International for connections to Vermont, Kansas, Texas, and even California. The visit to Delta and Montrose Counties and the West Elks AVA was a revelation. Food and wine consciousness there is deep indeed (LINK see book review of At Mesa’s Edge) and artisan producers in both categories are the evidence.
Flying Fork Café
Paonia, Colorado
June 9, 2005
Pizzetta
Rosemary Flat Bread // Roasted Garlic
Triple Cream Imported Cambazola Cheese
AppleWood Smoked Pheasant // Roma Tomatoes // Fontina Cheese
Bruschetta
Creamy Gorgonzola Dolce // Caramelized Onions // Balsamic Vinegar
Insalate
Organic Field Greens
Roma Tomatoes // Cucumbers // Red Onion
Shaved Parmesan Reggiano
Lemon Thyme Dressing
Entrate
Mustard Seed Encrusted Elk Loin
Gewurztraminer / Demi Glace Reduction with Tart Cherries
Mashed Sweet Yams // Sugar Snap Peas
Dolcetto
Tirimisu
Organic Sumatra // Tazo Tea
Wines:
Terror Creek Pinot Gris 2003, Stone Cottage Cellars Chardonnay 2003, Terror Creek Riesling 2002,
S. Rhodes Emilia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2003, S. Rhodes Estate Bottled Ellie’s Merlot 2001,
Alfred Eames Pinot Noir 2003, Alfred Eames Menage, S. Rhodes Merlot 2002, Stone Creek Cellars Alpine Desert Wine 2003