By Darryl Beeson

I am repeatedly asked about matching wines to different cheeses. The American impulse is to serve wine and cheese together. In other parts of the world, this is not considered a perfect match. Though the debate is not settled, there can be some inspired matches.

Kevin Zraly, author of the Windows on the World Wine Course, teaches the simplicity rule. "At Windows on the World, we found the best cheeses for wine are the subtly flavored ones," says Zraly, "with good Italian bets being Parmigiano Reggiano, fresh Mozzarella, Pecorino, Talleggio, and Fontina."

From France, Zraly recommends Chèvre, Montrachet, Tomme and Gruyère. From elsewhere, try Dutch Gouda, as well as English or some American Cheddar. "Don't forget domestic aged or fresh goat cheese and Monterey Jack," he adds.

The safe approach is to stick to mildness for successful matches. This is not to say that some boldly flavored cheeses will not be winners. Here is a top five list of cheese and wine pairings.

1. Parmigiano or Romano styled cheeses with almost any wine, a particular favorite being Champagne. This is the match to use if one is selling wine because average wine seems to taste better in tandem with the nutty flavors. The old French expression is to sell wine with cheese and buy wine with bread, because the richness of the cheese can hide faults and soften bitter edges to the wine.

2. Stilton, or other high quality blue-veined cheeses, dance elegantly with Port. The best match is a vintage or LBV (late bottled vintage) Port, as opposed to a tawny. The assertive flavors and higher alcohol levels of the Port are brought into submission by the rich and salty cheese. This pairing rivals the classic match-up of peanut butter with chocolate.

3. Roquefort, not unlike the Stilton with Port marriage, is magical with a French Sauternes. A poorer man's version of this would be to substitute a late harvest Muscat, such as the Bonny Doon "Vin De Glacière" from California, or a late-harvest Australian Semillon.

4. Goat cheese is fantastic, the fresher the better, served with the "king" of Sauvignon Blancs, Sancerre from the Loire Valley of France. Some domestic Sauvignon Blancs that would rise to this occasion include Honig, Matanzas Creek, Groth, Cakebread, as well as the more affordable Wente, Concannon and Chateau St. Michelle's "Horse Heaven Vineyard".

5. Brie is miraculous with Champagne. Opt for even more decadence by serving the Brie warmed, or even in a baked flour crust, and expect applause from your dining companions. Some noteworthy domestic Brut sparkling wines to substitute include the Mumm Napa, Domaine Chandon, and the Gruet from New Mexico.




Darryl Beeson searches the world for great wine finds. He is American Editor for www.wineontheweb.com.