Published on 01/1/2001

Where can you find great food, fine wines and the greatest service in America? San Francisco? New Orleans? New York? For four days each year, it now may well be...

Master Chefs Meet in Montana

Bouchaine, Chateau Montelena, Washington Wineries Pour
December 14, 2006
By Kevin Clarke

Where can you find great food, fine wines and the greatest service in America? San Francisco? New Orleans? New York? For four days each year, it now may well be Greenough, Montana.

Yes, Montana.

Throw in some other criteria like sumptuous accommodations, spectacular scenery and a multitude of outdoor recreation opportunities and it becomes a slam dunk.

The first annual Montana Master Chef Event was held in October at The Resort at Paws Up, just outside of Greenough. The sold-out event featured great chefs and winemakers who provided the lucky guests with five-course dinners and daily wine tastings in what most would consider “God’s country”. It is a beautiful but incongruous setting for world class dining--a working cattle ranch in a near wilderness setting. Cowboys never had it so good. Another contradiction struck me. The direction of my flight from Seattle to Missoula was east, but I was obviously headed to the West. Outdoor clothing was the norm for travelers on this flight with boots, plaid shirts, backpacks and fly rods in abundance. Some of these travelers as it turned out, were headed to the same place I was – Greenough, Montana.

Greenough is located about 30 minutes east of Missoula, Montana. Guests were picked up in vans by Paws Up staff and driven to the resort on Thursday afternoon. We were greeted in the lobby of the resort and enjoyed a variety of cheeses and our first wine as we registered. “Sparkling Wines of the World” were poured from France, Italy, Spain, Austria, Australia and the United States while the guests got acquainted.


	Photo: Mery Donald
	Lewis and Clark dinner was held in Pomp restaurant.

Later, we gathered for the opening reception in the lounge of the Pomp restaurant (Lewis and Clark aficionados will recognize that “Pomp” was the nickname of the child born to Sacagawea and Charbonneau on the journey of the Corps of Discovery 200 years ago.) All of the evening’s wines were from McCrea Cellars of Rainer, Washington, a rural town near Olympia. The winery is a pioneer of Rhône-style wines in that state, having worked with those varieties for nearly two decades. McCrea maintains a partnership with eastern Washington vineyards in Yakima Valley, Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain, a newly recognized appellation near the Tri-Cities. Their very nice 2005 Rousanne from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard was paired with appetizers of whitefish ceviche, cured wild salmon and Rocky Mountain trout. As the sun set, the guests mingled and took in the view of the Bob Marshall Wilderness from the deck of the lounge.

The first night dinner’s theme was a “Lewis and
Clark Frontier Dinner with Chef Jacob Wetherington.” Jacob is a Billings, Montana native who graduated from Le Cordon Bleu AOS culinary arts program at Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon. He has cooked for two luxury wilderness resorts and is dedicated to using locally-produced products. He did not disappoint and closely followed the evening’s Lewis and Clark theme by treating us to Pheasant Breast with the 2003 Sirocco (a Rhone blend); Rattlesnake Porridge with the 2004 Counoise, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard; Portable Soup with a 2004 Grenache; and Bison – 3 Ways with a 2004 Mourvèdre. Topping off the meal were three presentations of Huckleberries paired with McCrea’s delicious 2003 Late Harvest Roussanne.

What a first day! We were prepared to waddle off to our accommodations, but golf carts were provided for guests to return to their rooms. Paws Up Resort describes their accommodations as rustic elegance; though rustic might be a stretch. It’s more like western luxury, with an eclectic collection of beautiful furnishings and artwork personally picked out by the owners. Adding to the level of comfort are fireplaces and hot tubs. Roughing it - we weren’t.

Each morning we woke to absolutely perfect weather, which lasted the entire weekend. We were offered a variety of guided outdoor adventures from which to choose, in order to work up an appetite for the afternoons and evenings filled with food and wine. Foraging for mushrooms, hiking or riding on all terrain vehicles, upland bird hunting, horseback riding, river rafting, fly-fishing and sporting clays were available, with expert guides providing instruction and all the gear necessary for our enjoyment. For those needing a little more pampering, the resort has a variety of therapies at “Spa Town”.


	Photo: Mery Donald
	Chef Brian Bistrong, in a kitchen far different from that of the Harrison in New York, chats with Judy and Jim Barrett of Chateau Montelena.

Lunch was a barbeque demonstration at a place called “tent city”. The only things resembling a tent were the white canvas walls and ceilings. Inside the tents were raised wood floors, lamps, fine western furniture, art work, silverware and the ever present array of beautiful wine glasses. Another Montana native, Richard Funk, now living in the state of Washington, provided the wines from his Saviah Cellars winery in the acclaimed Walla Walla Valley. I particularly liked the 2003 Big Sky Cuvée, which was aptly named and labeled, given the location of this event. Richard, an avid hunter and fisherman, created an attractive label for this Big Sky Cuvée, a trout rising to take a fly.

A nice break from wine tasting was also available Friday afternoon at the “Pawctoberfest.” Flathead Lake Brewing Company offered three of their local brews paired with a fine selection of local cheeses, mustards and a house-made, bison sausage and sauerkraut. I’ve never had a better sausage and the fresh sauerkraut was outstanding. Now add my personal favorite, the Flathead Lake Peg Leg Porter and I momentarily thought about skipping dinner. Well, maybe not.

Friday evening’s dinner was preceded by a vertical tasting of Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1998 through 2002. Chateau Montelena’s Estate Cabernet has been rated by major wine experts as World Class every year for over 25 years. As Jim Barrett the owner/vintner likes to say, they have produced “no duds, no ho-hummers” no exceptions. This pouring certainly didn’t disappoint anyone.


	Photo: Mery Donald
	Chef Lee Hefter came up from Spago, Beverly Hills.

It was a highlight, not just for the outstanding wine, but for the opportunity to hear Jim and his wife, Judy, tell their story and give a short tutorial on wine making. The Los Angeles attorney came to the Napa Valley in 1972, bought an abandoned winery, brought it back to life and turned the wine industry upside down four years later by winning a very important international wine tasting in France with a 1973 Chardonnay. That tasting, the subject of the book Judgement at Paris, proved that the California wine industry had come of age and arguably was the catalyst that sparked the explosion of growth in the state’s wine industry. Upon hearing his Chardonnay had been chosen the outstanding white wine of the competition, Jim was quoted as saying: “Not bad for kids from the sticks”. This legend in American wine making put everyone at ease, whether novice or expert, and like all good teachers he made learning fun.

Chef Lee Hefter, Spago, Beverly Hills, prepared our next fabulous dinner, which was accompanied by Chateau Montelena Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernets. For me, the most memorable of the five courses was a beautifully presented black sea bass with garlic, little neck clams in a garlic-chive purée. The Kobe beef short ribs with Indian spices were a nice complement to the absolutely outstanding 1997 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.



	Kevin Clarke enjoys a moment with his first Blackfoot River trout before releasing it.

Finding time to do everything you wanted to at this event was difficult, if not impossible. On Saturday, I was sorry to have missed Chef Hefter’s lunch demonstration, featuring wine from another great Napa Valley winemaker, Bouchaine Vineyard. Bouchaine is the oldest continually operated winery in the Carneros region of Napa Valley. They have specialized in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for the last 25 years. Judging by reports from those attending this event, Chef Hefter’s grilled fish, paired with Bouchaine’s Chardonnay was another hit. But alas, I was “stuck” with spending the morning floating the Blackfoot River and being taught the fine art of fly-fishing by a Paws Up guide. The Blackfoot River is chronicled in the book and movie by the same name--“A River Runs Through It”. Though I have floated many rivers in the west, this was my first ever fly-fishing trip, and it was everything I hoped it would be. It was quite a thrill to actually catch (and of course release) an endangered Bull Trout. The “hatch” we would have matched our artificial flies to, explained our guide, was not expected until the afternoon. So he suggested we begin our morning fishing with wet flies instead of dry. These flies don’t drift on top of the water but float suspended just above the shallow river bottom. Now I have always heard fly fisherman speak of “bait fishing” with some disdain. So the irony of attaching a tiny red string to your wet fly to simulate a worm was not lost on me. Nor, something that I would call a “bobber”, being called a “strike indicator.” But hey, they were barbless hooks!

The afternoon had a Paws Up Resort “Top Chef” type of challenge, as seen on cable TV. I must admit, at that time I hadn’t yet seen the show, but I have become a big fan since. Paws Up’s own chef, Jacob Wetherington, was pitted against Stephen Asprinio, a former contender on the actual Top Chef show, in a cook-off using local Angus beef. Jacob won the contest and is looking forward to defending his title next year at the second annual Montana Master Chefs event.


	Photo: Mery Donald
	Chef Jacob Wetherington prepares plates for the competition.

Our last evening’s dinner began with a reception featuring relatively new “sister wineries’ from Walla Walla Valley of Washington state, Pepper Bridge /Amavi Cellars. They are billed as “sister” wineries because they share the same winemaker, Jean-Francois Pellet, and the same estate vineyards. Managing Partner Ray Goff and his wife, Diana, came to the wine industry after 35 years at Anheuser-Busch where, among other things, he managed the company's expansion into China and served as president of the company's agricultural subsidiary. His purchasing of beer hops led him to Washington State wine country and a friendship with key wine growers and wine makers in the state. Ray and Diana also have a Montana connection and have a second home at their north-central Montana ranch not far from Paws Up resort. The goal at Pepper Bridge is to produce elegant, complex Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines. Amavi includes Semillon and Syrah with a goal of producing exceptional quality and value. Ray correctly pointed out to the diners that “the best wine here, is the one you like”.

Chef Brian Bistrong, The Harrison, New York, paired Amavi and Pepper Bridge wines of Semillon, Merlot and Cabernet with smoked trout salad, grilled quail, braised rabbit and a New York strip steak followed by apple bread pudding with rum-raisin ice cream and quince sauce. It was a fabulous dinner to conclude the event.

Many of us enjoy the experience of discussing favorite subjects like food and wine with like-minded individuals. This event is different because it also provides a three-day opportunity to learn from and appreciate the talents of fine chefs and winemakers, who are also guests at the resort, in a casual and relaxed atmosphere. That atmosphere is fostered and enhanced by the incredible service provided by the Paws Up staff who were every bit as interesting as the guests they served.

If the experience of living in luxury, while enjoying the great outdoors, appeals to you, Montana Master Chefs at Paws Up Resort in Greenough, Montana, is the place you want to be. Their borrowed motto, “the last best place” fits pretty well. I recommend you make your reservations soon for next October.

Editor’s note: More information about The Resort at Paws Up and the Montana Master Chefs Event (which sold out in 2006) is available at www.pawsup.com.