Lake County Hosts Elevation of Wine Symposium
- By Dan Clarke
- Published 06/29/2007
- Features
Dan Clarke
California Wine Press publishes two internet magazines.
www.californiawineandfood.com (CWF) addresses the interests of restaurant and hospitality professionals.
Your kind comments have been much appreciated. Thank you. You may contact us at info@californiawineandfood.com
Regards,
Dan Clarke, Publisher
Randle Johnson said that growing grapes at high altitude is akin to being “next to God. And God’s not always fun.”
Speaking from a perspective more viticultural than theological, he explained that heavenly vineyards can produce intensely flavored grapes, but that farming them can be intensely challenging.
Johnson was the keynote speaker at the initial Elevation of Wine Symposium sponsored by the Lake County Winegrape Commission on June 14th. He joined experts from around the world at Snow’s Lake Vineyard in the Red Hills AVA to discuss high altitude grape growing and winemaking. The 1974 graduate of the University of California, Davis (M.S. Viticulture) has substantial, if not unique, experience with the topic. His career in California includes an early stint at Mayacamas Vineyards, located about 2,500 feet above the Napa Valley on Mount Veeder. Later, he worked at Stags’ Leap Winery, eventually returning to Mount Veeder to make wines for the Hess Collection.
Snows Lake Vineyards in Lake County's Red Hills area.
Currently Johnson divides his energies between two Hess Group wineries; Artezin in California and Bodega Colome in Argentina. It is that latter assignment which gives him unquestioned experience with truly high altitude growing. Vineyards at the Colombe Estate are situated from 7,218 to 9.892 feet.
Two key concepts regarding high elevation vineyards were identified by Johnson:
Amplification occurs with many conditions, though not all. Extreme temperatures, high winds and high rainfall, and solar radiation are frequent issues. Non-uniformity (heterogeneity) of vineyard sites means varied soil types, exposures and weather types. Farming them often entails close monitoring with varying times of maturity leading to repeated harvesting of the same block.
Picking at optimal ripeness is an issue for winemakers, too, who must be careful that tannin maturity is considered, regardless of sugar levels.
Clearly, establishing high elevation vineyards can result in intense wines, but at substantial risk and substantial cost. Randle Johnson quoted Georges de Latour of Beaulieu Vineyard as defining “Three ways to lose money—slow horses, fast women and hillside vineyards,” adding his own observation, “I can’t think of one mountain vineyard that’s ever come in on budget.”
Will the marketplace accept these intense wines and support those who work hard to produce them, Johnson mused?
The Terroir of High Altitude
Gregory Jones, Ph.D., a professor of geography at Southern Oregon University, addressed the issue of The Climate of High Altitude—Characteristics of Light, Temperature & Weather at High Altitude. He was the first—though not the last—speaker to speculate on “what defines high elevation?”. It could vary, he said, with different kinds of issues. An Argentine vineyard at 9,000 feet would be hard to quibble with. But what about the difference between the Carneros and Rutherford AVAs? Or perhaps the different heights within a specific vineyard? Elevation could be evaluated as absolute or relative.
Climate variations at altitude are controlled by differences in latitude, elevation and exposure to the sun. Common changes in vineyard conditions at high altitude include decreased pressure, reduced oxygen availability, different precipitation and diurnal wind patterns and decreased temperatures.
Leo McCloskey, Ph.D., the President and Co-Founder of Enologix, spoke on Measurable Effects of Altitude On Grape & Wine Quality. These measurements of quality would rely heavily on numerical ratings to define the performance of wines in the marketplace. “The standard lapse rate for altitude of 4-5°F per thousand feet on a so-called standard day,” he observed “is driving wine quality.” With Lake County elevations ranging from around 1,400 feet at the lakeshore to mountain peaks of 4,000 feet, there would seem to be many vineyard locations from which to gather such data. However, McCloskey said, before analyzing differences that altitude may make in Lake County growing, it would appropriate to study such information from the elevations of the Napa Valley, which he called “the benchmark region by which we all judge wines.”
Viticulture Up High
Glen McGourty of UC Davis Extension chaired a late-morning session, which included wine samples illustrative of the issues discussed by several of the panelists.
Dr. Vittorino Novello came from Italy where he is Chairman of the Department of Viticulture at the University of Turin. High elevation growing is known in Europe as “heroic viticulture,” he said, because of the attendant social and economic difficulties. Such vineyards have drier air, less biotic disease, and require less spraying. They receive more UV light and more polyphenols and generally show more aromas and better taste.
Professor Vittorino Novello of the University of Turin
Novello’s sample wine from an elevated Italian location was the 2005 Petite Arvine by Le Crêtes. The Valle d’Aosta DOC wine comes from a small appellation that produces mostly red wines, but this crisp and minerally white wine well represented the 650-meter high Vigne Champorette vineyard whence it came.
In explaining European definitions of vineyards as either hilly or mountainous, the professor suggested he’d describe the rolling vineyards of the surrounding Snows Lake Vineyard as hilly, but not mountainous in spite of its approximate 2000-foot elevation. Thus began a recurring topic on the day—what is a “mountain vineyard”? And what is “high elevation” or “high altitude” grapegrowing? There seems to be no absolute definition, at least not for American viticulture. One member of the audience asked if the situation might become another “old vines,” apparently referring to words frequently seen on California Zinfandel bottles, which have no legal definition and are subject to liberal interpretation. Many attendees seemed to think that if high altitude viticulture produces some noteworthy fruit, a specific definition of the concept should be made. Consensus seemed to be that day isn’t likely to come any time soon; at least not until much further investigation of the subject.
Paul Skinner, Ph.D., is a soil scientist, a viticulturist and a winemaker. The company he founded in 1994, Terra Spase, specializes in bringing new information technologies to vineyard management. He continues his vineyard consulting work, while he develops wines for the Sequum brand he founded in 2001.
Many soil types are represented in Lake County’s mostly higher-altitude vineyards, said Skinner, who commented that this diversity can be evidenced by an individual 40-acre plot containing myriad soil types. He offered comments on a Spencer Roloson Winery 2004 Syrah, which was a big wine—rich and intense, but almost silky smooth. The fruit source was from Madder Lake Vineyard, whose elevation ranges from 1,550 to 2,250 feet. Soils there he described as Volcanic/Hambright Konocti Complex over broken Rhyolite.
Vince Bonotto has had a 30-year career with Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines and currently serves as Vice President of Vineyards and Grower Relations for the company. His experience with California vineyards is broad and includes time managing properties all over Northern California and the Central Coast. Over the years he’s had more than a passing familiarity with steeply pitched vineyards on Diamond Mountain, the Napa Valley source for outstanding Sterling Cabernets. A few years ago 25-year old Phylloxera-affected vines there were replaced. Similar conditions on the Valley floor often lead to denser planting and different trellising. Any such modifications would have been major disruptions to these terraced vineyards, which range from 800 to 1,600 feet and whose slopes vary from 15 to 30%, so replanting replicated what had produced very good quality in earlier years. This was amply demonstrated by the pouring of the 2004 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon from Diamond Mountain Ranch.
Winemaking—Taming the Intensity
Jim Gordon, the editor of Wines & Vines, moderated a panel of three practitioners of winemaking from high altitude vineyards.
One was from Amador County in California’s Sierra Foothills. Bill Easton poured and discussed two vintage 2003 Syrahs (“Sentinel Oak Vineyard” and “High Slopes”) from his Domaine de la Terre Rouge Winery which demonstrated the density differences in fruit from vineyards of approximately 1,500 and 3,000 foot elevations.
Australian Phil Shaw makes wines of intensity from Koomooloo Vineyard.
Ernesto Bajda came north from Argentina. The vineyard manager for Bodegas Esmeralda brought three examples of 2004 Malbec from Catena Viñas. These wines were sourced from vineyards at (just short of) 3,000, 4,000 and 5,000 feet. The South American recapped a litany of characteristics and presumed advantages of fruit grown at high altitude.
Australian Philip Shaw has a substantial
resume that includes leading roles at both Rosemount and Southcorp. Currently CEO of Cumulus Wines, he also produces his owns high altitude wines from Orange (Australia) under his own name. The Philip Shaw No. 89 2005 Shiraz was poured as demonstration of the style emanating from the cool climate Koomooloo Vineyard situated at 2,950 feet. Shaw seems to be bucking the ultra-ripe fruit preferences of many Californian vintners. While they may feel that additional “hang time” will ensure fuller ripening, the Australian picks at lower sugars to achieve a lower alcohol style. He prefers the flavors such fruit gives him and isn’t unduly worried about the tannins. “If we thought it was too green,” he said of grapes harvested at lower Brix levels, “we’d start (micro-) oxidizing right away when it comes into the winery.”
Marketing—From Mountain to Table
Paul Wagner of Balzac Communications moderated a lively panel in the afternoon’s concluding segment.
Industry veterans Jeff Prather, Wilfred Wong and Ronn Wiegand represented a wealth of experience in both off and on-sale aspects of wine marketing.
Prather spent a decade as Wine Director for the well-known Seattle restaurant Ray’s Boathouse and currently works with Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, a retail operation cum wine bar, in San Francisco.
(L-R) Jeff Prather, Wilfred Wong and Ronn Wiegand all had opinions on marketing.
Wong’s title is Cellarmaster at the 62-store Beverages & More! (BevMo) chain. He’s responsible for entire product line at the stores, which includes about 4,000 wine skus.
Wiegand, publisher of Restaurant Wine, has that rare distinction of being both a Master Sommelier and a Master of Wine.
The three panelists agreed that if wines produced from high altitude grapes do not constitute a definable category now, they could in future. Wilfred Wong called high altitude wine “at best, a niche market.” Jeff Prather felt that such a category exists, but more in a potential or, as yet, unfilled definition. Ronn Wiegand’s opinion was that wines from high altitude vineyards do constitute a distinctive category, albeit a small one, that would grow if it were properly explained. Paul Wagner observed that marketing wine is about “finding words that people understand.”
And what are the characteristics of these high altitude wines and how can they be explained to the consumer?
Weigand said that such wines possess “slightly slimmer structure and more aroma,” adding the personal observation, “I’m looking for refreshing wines and wines with fragrance—they go on my table, but they go on (many) restaurant lists.” Jeff Prather declared that “the (high) alcohol is getting out of hand” and expressed a preference for “wines that are not ponderous—wines that go with food.” He related a recent experience in a good restaurant in the wine country of Sonoma County. Opening a bottle of Martinelli Zinfandel whose label said it contained 16.9% alcohol, he tasted it and poured a taste for the waiter, too, asking whether he’d describe the wine as having “light, medium or heavy body?” Incredibly, the server defined it as light bodied.
While no poll was taken, it seemed that the panelists--and probably most of the audience--preferred wines lower than high alcohol levels recently in vogue. However, the popularity of high alcohol “fruit bombs” preferred by many of the critics and influencers of public taste may frame the question in economic terms.
The issue of rating systems that may be driving these preferences generated spirited discussion, as did the way that the wine industry itself educated consumers about its products. “User friendly” was an admonition suggested and the plethora of information typically touted by wineries may not be the best path to consumers’ hearts and palates. Paul Wagner made the sage observation that “people buy a bottle of wine to take a 45-minute vacation . . . and all too often we take them on a vacation back to their high school chemistry lab.”
Creating and marketing this nascent category of high altitude wines may depend on defining what the term means and on setting parameters. However necessary panelists and their audience might consider these tasks, consensus seemed to be that the whole issue would benefit from ongoing discussion.
This last section of the formal program concluded, most adjourned to a tasting of wines from producers in the sponsoring Lake County Winegrape Commission, and other high altitude locations.
An Overhead Visit to Elevated Vineyards in Lake County
A day after the symposium I joined four other journalists in a uniquely high elevation observation of the high altitude vineyards of Lake County. We were in the company of Jerry Brassfield of Brassfield Estate who piloted the helicopter and Kaj Ahlman, owner of the 4,300-acre Six Sigma Ranch & Vineyard. Though both men have only recently developed high altitude vineyards and wineries, their substantial resources and commitment to their projects is evident.
More information about the symposium and high altitude wines in general can be found at www.theelevationofwine.org.
Editor’s Note: Readers who plan to visit Lake County can find links to the websites of wineries, as well as links to lodging and dining options in the North Coast section of the Resource Directory of Taste California Travel.
Speaking from a perspective more viticultural than theological, he explained that heavenly vineyards can produce intensely flavored grapes, but that farming them can be intensely challenging.
Johnson was the keynote speaker at the initial Elevation of Wine Symposium sponsored by the Lake County Winegrape Commission on June 14th. He joined experts from around the world at Snow’s Lake Vineyard in the Red Hills AVA to discuss high altitude grape growing and winemaking. The 1974 graduate of the University of California, Davis (M.S. Viticulture) has substantial, if not unique, experience with the topic. His career in California includes an early stint at Mayacamas Vineyards, located about 2,500 feet above the Napa Valley on Mount Veeder. Later, he worked at Stags’ Leap Winery, eventually returning to Mount Veeder to make wines for the Hess Collection.
Snows Lake Vineyards in Lake County's Red Hills area.
Currently Johnson divides his energies between two Hess Group wineries; Artezin in California and Bodega Colome in Argentina. It is that latter assignment which gives him unquestioned experience with truly high altitude growing. Vineyards at the Colombe Estate are situated from 7,218 to 9.892 feet.
Two key concepts regarding high elevation vineyards were identified by Johnson:
Amplification occurs with many conditions, though not all. Extreme temperatures, high winds and high rainfall, and solar radiation are frequent issues. Non-uniformity (heterogeneity) of vineyard sites means varied soil types, exposures and weather types. Farming them often entails close monitoring with varying times of maturity leading to repeated harvesting of the same block.
Picking at optimal ripeness is an issue for winemakers, too, who must be careful that tannin maturity is considered, regardless of sugar levels.
Clearly, establishing high elevation vineyards can result in intense wines, but at substantial risk and substantial cost. Randle Johnson quoted Georges de Latour of Beaulieu Vineyard as defining “Three ways to lose money—slow horses, fast women and hillside vineyards,” adding his own observation, “I can’t think of one mountain vineyard that’s ever come in on budget.”
Will the marketplace accept these intense wines and support those who work hard to produce them, Johnson mused?
The Terroir of High Altitude
Gregory Jones, Ph.D., a professor of geography at Southern Oregon University, addressed the issue of The Climate of High Altitude—Characteristics of Light, Temperature & Weather at High Altitude. He was the first—though not the last—speaker to speculate on “what defines high elevation?”. It could vary, he said, with different kinds of issues. An Argentine vineyard at 9,000 feet would be hard to quibble with. But what about the difference between the Carneros and Rutherford AVAs? Or perhaps the different heights within a specific vineyard? Elevation could be evaluated as absolute or relative.
Climate variations at altitude are controlled by differences in latitude, elevation and exposure to the sun. Common changes in vineyard conditions at high altitude include decreased pressure, reduced oxygen availability, different precipitation and diurnal wind patterns and decreased temperatures.
Leo McCloskey, Ph.D., the President and Co-Founder of Enologix, spoke on Measurable Effects of Altitude On Grape & Wine Quality. These measurements of quality would rely heavily on numerical ratings to define the performance of wines in the marketplace. “The standard lapse rate for altitude of 4-5°F per thousand feet on a so-called standard day,” he observed “is driving wine quality.” With Lake County elevations ranging from around 1,400 feet at the lakeshore to mountain peaks of 4,000 feet, there would seem to be many vineyard locations from which to gather such data. However, McCloskey said, before analyzing differences that altitude may make in Lake County growing, it would appropriate to study such information from the elevations of the Napa Valley, which he called “the benchmark region by which we all judge wines.”
Viticulture Up High
Glen McGourty of UC Davis Extension chaired a late-morning session, which included wine samples illustrative of the issues discussed by several of the panelists.
Dr. Vittorino Novello came from Italy where he is Chairman of the Department of Viticulture at the University of Turin. High elevation growing is known in Europe as “heroic viticulture,” he said, because of the attendant social and economic difficulties. Such vineyards have drier air, less biotic disease, and require less spraying. They receive more UV light and more polyphenols and generally show more aromas and better taste.
Professor Vittorino Novello of the University of Turin
Novello’s sample wine from an elevated Italian location was the 2005 Petite Arvine by Le Crêtes. The Valle d’Aosta DOC wine comes from a small appellation that produces mostly red wines, but this crisp and minerally white wine well represented the 650-meter high Vigne Champorette vineyard whence it came.
In explaining European definitions of vineyards as either hilly or mountainous, the professor suggested he’d describe the rolling vineyards of the surrounding Snows Lake Vineyard as hilly, but not mountainous in spite of its approximate 2000-foot elevation. Thus began a recurring topic on the day—what is a “mountain vineyard”? And what is “high elevation” or “high altitude” grapegrowing? There seems to be no absolute definition, at least not for American viticulture. One member of the audience asked if the situation might become another “old vines,” apparently referring to words frequently seen on California Zinfandel bottles, which have no legal definition and are subject to liberal interpretation. Many attendees seemed to think that if high altitude viticulture produces some noteworthy fruit, a specific definition of the concept should be made. Consensus seemed to be that day isn’t likely to come any time soon; at least not until much further investigation of the subject.
Paul Skinner, Ph.D., is a soil scientist, a viticulturist and a winemaker. The company he founded in 1994, Terra Spase, specializes in bringing new information technologies to vineyard management. He continues his vineyard consulting work, while he develops wines for the Sequum brand he founded in 2001.
Many soil types are represented in Lake County’s mostly higher-altitude vineyards, said Skinner, who commented that this diversity can be evidenced by an individual 40-acre plot containing myriad soil types. He offered comments on a Spencer Roloson Winery 2004 Syrah, which was a big wine—rich and intense, but almost silky smooth. The fruit source was from Madder Lake Vineyard, whose elevation ranges from 1,550 to 2,250 feet. Soils there he described as Volcanic/Hambright Konocti Complex over broken Rhyolite.
Vince Bonotto has had a 30-year career with Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines and currently serves as Vice President of Vineyards and Grower Relations for the company. His experience with California vineyards is broad and includes time managing properties all over Northern California and the Central Coast. Over the years he’s had more than a passing familiarity with steeply pitched vineyards on Diamond Mountain, the Napa Valley source for outstanding Sterling Cabernets. A few years ago 25-year old Phylloxera-affected vines there were replaced. Similar conditions on the Valley floor often lead to denser planting and different trellising. Any such modifications would have been major disruptions to these terraced vineyards, which range from 800 to 1,600 feet and whose slopes vary from 15 to 30%, so replanting replicated what had produced very good quality in earlier years. This was amply demonstrated by the pouring of the 2004 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon from Diamond Mountain Ranch.
Winemaking—Taming the Intensity
Jim Gordon, the editor of Wines & Vines, moderated a panel of three practitioners of winemaking from high altitude vineyards.
One was from Amador County in California’s Sierra Foothills. Bill Easton poured and discussed two vintage 2003 Syrahs (“Sentinel Oak Vineyard” and “High Slopes”) from his Domaine de la Terre Rouge Winery which demonstrated the density differences in fruit from vineyards of approximately 1,500 and 3,000 foot elevations.
Australian Phil Shaw makes wines of intensity from Koomooloo Vineyard.
Ernesto Bajda came north from Argentina. The vineyard manager for Bodegas Esmeralda brought three examples of 2004 Malbec from Catena Viñas. These wines were sourced from vineyards at (just short of) 3,000, 4,000 and 5,000 feet. The South American recapped a litany of characteristics and presumed advantages of fruit grown at high altitude.
Australian Philip Shaw has a substantial
resume that includes leading roles at both Rosemount and Southcorp. Currently CEO of Cumulus Wines, he also produces his owns high altitude wines from Orange (Australia) under his own name. The Philip Shaw No. 89 2005 Shiraz was poured as demonstration of the style emanating from the cool climate Koomooloo Vineyard situated at 2,950 feet. Shaw seems to be bucking the ultra-ripe fruit preferences of many Californian vintners. While they may feel that additional “hang time” will ensure fuller ripening, the Australian picks at lower sugars to achieve a lower alcohol style. He prefers the flavors such fruit gives him and isn’t unduly worried about the tannins. “If we thought it was too green,” he said of grapes harvested at lower Brix levels, “we’d start (micro-) oxidizing right away when it comes into the winery.”
Marketing—From Mountain to Table
Paul Wagner of Balzac Communications moderated a lively panel in the afternoon’s concluding segment.
Industry veterans Jeff Prather, Wilfred Wong and Ronn Wiegand represented a wealth of experience in both off and on-sale aspects of wine marketing.
Prather spent a decade as Wine Director for the well-known Seattle restaurant Ray’s Boathouse and currently works with Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, a retail operation cum wine bar, in San Francisco.
(L-R) Jeff Prather, Wilfred Wong and Ronn Wiegand all had opinions on marketing.
Wong’s title is Cellarmaster at the 62-store Beverages & More! (BevMo) chain. He’s responsible for entire product line at the stores, which includes about 4,000 wine skus.
Wiegand, publisher of Restaurant Wine, has that rare distinction of being both a Master Sommelier and a Master of Wine.
The three panelists agreed that if wines produced from high altitude grapes do not constitute a definable category now, they could in future. Wilfred Wong called high altitude wine “at best, a niche market.” Jeff Prather felt that such a category exists, but more in a potential or, as yet, unfilled definition. Ronn Wiegand’s opinion was that wines from high altitude vineyards do constitute a distinctive category, albeit a small one, that would grow if it were properly explained. Paul Wagner observed that marketing wine is about “finding words that people understand.”
And what are the characteristics of these high altitude wines and how can they be explained to the consumer?
Weigand said that such wines possess “slightly slimmer structure and more aroma,” adding the personal observation, “I’m looking for refreshing wines and wines with fragrance—they go on my table, but they go on (many) restaurant lists.” Jeff Prather declared that “the (high) alcohol is getting out of hand” and expressed a preference for “wines that are not ponderous—wines that go with food.” He related a recent experience in a good restaurant in the wine country of Sonoma County. Opening a bottle of Martinelli Zinfandel whose label said it contained 16.9% alcohol, he tasted it and poured a taste for the waiter, too, asking whether he’d describe the wine as having “light, medium or heavy body?” Incredibly, the server defined it as light bodied.
While no poll was taken, it seemed that the panelists--and probably most of the audience--preferred wines lower than high alcohol levels recently in vogue. However, the popularity of high alcohol “fruit bombs” preferred by many of the critics and influencers of public taste may frame the question in economic terms.
The issue of rating systems that may be driving these preferences generated spirited discussion, as did the way that the wine industry itself educated consumers about its products. “User friendly” was an admonition suggested and the plethora of information typically touted by wineries may not be the best path to consumers’ hearts and palates. Paul Wagner made the sage observation that “people buy a bottle of wine to take a 45-minute vacation . . . and all too often we take them on a vacation back to their high school chemistry lab.”
Creating and marketing this nascent category of high altitude wines may depend on defining what the term means and on setting parameters. However necessary panelists and their audience might consider these tasks, consensus seemed to be that the whole issue would benefit from ongoing discussion.
This last section of the formal program concluded, most adjourned to a tasting of wines from producers in the sponsoring Lake County Winegrape Commission, and other high altitude locations.
An Overhead Visit to Elevated Vineyards in Lake County
A day after the symposium I joined four other journalists in a uniquely high elevation observation of the high altitude vineyards of Lake County. We were in the company of Jerry Brassfield of Brassfield Estate who piloted the helicopter and Kaj Ahlman, owner of the 4,300-acre Six Sigma Ranch & Vineyard. Though both men have only recently developed high altitude vineyards and wineries, their substantial resources and commitment to their projects is evident.
More information about the symposium and high altitude wines in general can be found at www.theelevationofwine.org.
Editor’s Note: Readers who plan to visit Lake County can find links to the websites of wineries, as well as links to lodging and dining options in the North Coast section of the Resource Directory of Taste California Travel.