And then … as we arrived at our destination in Burgundy, it was apparent that serendipity wasn’t quite finished with us. Our surroundings at the Chateau de Challanges were almost too perfect to process: Butterflies from hydrangea, to lily, to primrose. A chorus of birds with seemingly inexhaustible lung-capacity chirped and trilled, and the perfume of 100-foot trees laden with snowy blossoms hung heavy in the air. Somewhere behind the scenes, we were convinced, Walt Disney’s set-makers were lurking, ready to pounce on an errant weed, replace an ancient brick, or tend to the lush gardens and rolling fields that surrounded us. Or maybe it was all just a cardboard façade on a back movie lot, and would tumble down in the slightest breeze (shows how cynical we’d become, eh?).
Back steps at the Chateau de Challanges
Back steps at the Chateau de Challanges

In Challanges (a village just east of the town of Beaune), the first bricks were put in place in the 1100s – with the “newer” buildings going up just after the French Revolution. Despite the addition of satellite dishes on the aging edifices, and the prevalence of cell-phones in the hands of virtually every “local” on the streets, not much seems to have changed in the way of life there. In Burgundy, the history and riches of the land are revered.

Situated on seven acres, the Chateau de Challanges is a converted private residence first built in the 1870s. Upon our arrival, I was surprised and delighted to find that Doug had reserved a suite for our weeklong stay. We were given two high-ceilinged, antique-filled rooms (plus roomy bath) upstairs at the front of the hotel; from our sitting room French doors opened onto a private balcony overlooking the grounds.

It should be noted that the price of these exquisite accommodations was still less than we paid for our generic hotel rooms in London and Paris – perhaps because France’s tourism board has awarded the property only three stars. Granted, the hotel does not offer a full restaurant. But a lovely breakfast (which can be enjoyed in the petit déjeuner room, or at umbrella-tables scattered in the gardens) was included with our lodging, and a comfy bar offered an enviable collection of fine scotches and other liquors. Also, at just about any hour guests can order vintages from a wine-list that would make the eyes of most collectors glaze over in envy (we were in Burgundy, after all).

This could well be the best bargain on the planet.
Beaune Farmers Market
Beaune Farmers Market

But the greatest discovery was our hosts, Wilfred and Elizabeth Weber. The couple has run the hotel since 2002, and they are as kind and accommodating as one could hope to encounter anywhere on the planet. Both speak charming, broken English (he a bit more comfortably than she), and were quick to ply us with brochures, information, and suggestions. Wilfred in particular “adopted” us from the start: Doug arranged bicycle rentals for us during our visit, and Monsieur Weber spent a great deal of time positioning the seat to ensure my optimum comfort. When I asked about the history of the property, he whipped out a hand-typed, five-page summary; I suspect he did the translation himself (I wish I could have understood the entire French commentary, as it appeared to contain some juicy tidbits about a 14th-century king’s wife who was convicted of adultery with two brothers from Normandy – presumably not her own).

Our first full day in Beaune found us on the bikes, pedaling into the town’s “downtown” area. This is a tourist’s dream: Beaune comprises a circular area featuring medieval architecture, with side-spokes leading to shops offering every conceivable product and service. Not surprisingly, wine shops are much in evidence here (aside from the airfare and lodging needed for a stay in Beaune, the prices for wines of the region are significantly less than would be found stateside). Hair salons, pharmacies, patisseries, and women’s clothing boutiques also account for much of the retail space (conceivably, French women – and men – devote a great deal of time to their appearance, health, and palate). It is difficult to find a store window that does not offer an enticing display.

We were profoundly moved by Beaune’s most notable attraction: the Hospices de Beaune (also known as the Hotel-Dieu). Constructed in the Middle Ages by the order of Nicolas Rolin, the Duke of Burgundy, this facility was established to care for the town’s poor and indigent in the wake of the famine that followed the Hundred Years’ War. In an unprecedented gesture of compassion among those of their class, the wealthy Duke and his wife endowed the Hospice with an annual income (though a saltworks and the planting of surrounding vineyards), and engaged numerous local artists to create original works to embellish its façade and walls. With America’s healthcare crisis in mind, we realized how truly revolutionary was this model of ministering to the needy.

Until the 20th century, the Sisters of the Hospices de Beaune housed and treated countless sick persons in the complex’s large rooms. Medical treatments were suspended in 1977, but the retirement home remains open. Since 1851, the Hospices de Beaune has staged one of the world’s most famous wine auctions on the third Sunday of November each year, featuring the wines from Hospices’ 45 vineyards.
Famed Hospices de Beaune
Famed Hospices de Beaune

Upon our return to the Chateau, Monsieur Weber helpfully suggests a restaurant we might enjoy for dinner. By now realizing that our best experiences were coming from the hearts of our hosts, we were eager to try out the venue. But when Wilfred advised us that the only available reservation would seat us at a table of ten, Doug and I did a momentary backpedal. What if, what if, what if? Then we listen to ourselves, realize we’re being a trifle elitist, and laugh at our silliness. And when Wilfred offers to drive us into town himself, we are happy to comply.

Another success story: Le Garaudiere is filled with locals, and offers the best of French country cuisine. One side of the room – which features whitewashed walls, red-tile floors, and large windows that let in the warm evening breezes – is devoted to an enormous, open hearth, where the chef prepares the meals. We are seated at a table with four jovial British vacationers (one of whom was an internist at the Mayo Clinic; his wife has spent twenty years as a hospice nurse). They are engaging and cheery, and the conversation is non-stop throughout the long evening.  And the food – the food is a revelation.

Doug’s “starter” is a pair of poached eggs on toast, accompanied by escargot, drenched with a mushroom-burgundy sauce that has him nearly swooning with delight. My salad arrives with whipped chevre-topped toasts, bits of country ham, juicy tomatoes, and walnuts. Not entirely sure how I’m going to manage my entrée, I’m still eager to tie into the giant gambas that are presented (heads on), accompanied by a molded cup of wild and white rice. Doug has no trouble polishing off his filet of boeuf, topped with morel mushrooms and a cream sauce, along with potatoes au gratin and a small salad.

The desserts are equally heavenly: my slices of gateau chocolat, which are accompanied by ripe, luscious strawberry slices, have a satisfyingly chewy crust, and are drizzled with cream; Doug’s crème brulee is the perfect consistency and lacks the cloying sweetness that overpowers many such desserts. We try to send our plates round the table, but our companions are dealing with their own challenges in finishing off their sweets. We all give it a valiant effort, however; few crumbs remain on any of our dishes.

 
Editor’s note: Last we brought you Part One of “Taking A Chance . . .” (http://www.californiawineandfood.com/takingachance1.html). Marianne’s series concludes next week with Part Three.

Marianne Lucchesi Hamilton has been a journalist for over 20 years, and writes regularly about food, wine, entertainment, and technology. She is also the owner of Los Gatos-based Lucchesi Communications, which provides marketing writing and editorial services. She can be reached at lucchesicomm@earthlink.net.