Expatriate Irishman John Larchet brought his wines to San Francisco’s new Four Seasons Hotel last week. Both the wines and the hotel are great additions to the city. Wednesday’s gathering of the Anthony Dias Blue’s Bon Appetit Tasting Panel brought together key Northern California retailers and restaurateurs and members of the press for a comprehensive tasting and following lunch.

The Dublin-born Larchet fell in love with Australia and her wines shortly after leaving Trinity College and now, a couple of decades later, he sources wines from many different producers in 18 separate regions for the collection he markets under The Australian Premium Wine Collection banner.

As in California, winegrowers can plant any variety in any location in Australia. "But if the label says Clare Valley Appellation, for instance, it must contain 85% fruit from that area," he said, emphasizing that the country’s industry recognizes geographic differences and seeks to plant the best grape for the location and terroir. "We started learning from our mistakes in the late 1880’s," he continued, "and I think, by and large, the current crop of Australian winemakers have their act together. It’s all about sourcing the right variety from the right region."

The morning tasting presented approximately 40 wines from eight different regions. To be sure, Australia’s most famous grape variety, Shiraz (Syrah) was represented, but so were so many others. The offerings were definitely in the upper end, super-premium category with U.S. retail pricing ranging from $12 to $45 a bottle. Chardonnays from the Adelaide Hills in South Australia (Shaw & Smith, unoaked and Grosset, Picadilly) and Geelong in Victoria (Bannockburn) showed well, as did Rieslings from Clare Valley of South Australia (Pikes, Polish Hill River) and Frankland way out in Western Australia (Frankland Estate). Sauvignon Blancs and Semillons were represented, both on their own and blended together and, in one case, with Chardonnay (Benjamin’s Blend from Hill of Content in the Margaret River appellation of Western Australia).

Of the reds, we expected the Shiraz wines to be good and they didn’t disappoint. Some of the Bordeaux blends stood out and we found The Palatine, a 1999 vintage from Knappstein-Lenswood ($37), comprised of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec to be particularly appealing.

Lunch was spectacular. Eleven wines were served in three brackets to accompany three food courses. Such vinous diversity was arranged, said John Larchet, "To give the kitchen a challenge and to show some variation that I think we’re not known for."

The Four Seasons’ kitchen certainly rose to the occasion. The meal was as much a showcase of its breadth and diversity as was the array of wines. Our own favorites from the three flights of Aussie wine were the By Farr Viognier 2000, Joseph Moda Amarone Cabernet Merlot 1999 and the Mt. Horrocks "Cordon Cut" Riesling 2001.

After taking a little heat about one selection in the morning tasting, the Joseph Sparkling Red NV, which most tasters found an aberration ("What were they thinking?" seemed to be the consensus), Larchet accepted plaudits from many in his audience for the overall quality of his wine collection. "I’m gratified to hear kind comments from my colleagues at this table," he concluded, "None of whom suffer fools easily and are not likely to offer pleasant platitudes."