An Albarino by Any Other Name Would…
- By CWF Sources
- Published 01/1/2001
- Features
by Mike Petersen
Albarino, Verdejo, Viura, Xarel-lo, Macobeo--what do they mean? How can one deal with all of these new terms? Turn to the Web? Call somebody? Consult The Encyclopedia of Wine? With a very small amount of effort the terms are found to be varieties of white Spanish wine grapes. The age of the Internet wins.
The lack of familiarity of many of us with Spanish wines and wine terminology is a concern of the organizers and the people representing these wines at a recent trade tasting. You have an excellent product, which stands on its own quite well, but how do you explain it or provide a point of familiarity to your audience? Just confront it by addressing at the outset. The organizers provide a glossary in the notebook that lists the wines and foods that will be served. Albarino: “Grape grown in Galicia’s Rias Baixas D. O. used to produce aromatic dry white wine, often compared to an Alsace Riesling.” (D.O. is akin to the French and Italian terms “Appellation Controlée” and “Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita.”) More precisely, “D.O.” is “Denominacion de Origen.” [The] “Spanish quality control system. Each region is governed by boundaries of the region, grape varieties, maximum yields, alcoholic strength and other limitations pertaining to the district.”
To continue in this vein would do a great injustice to the Spanish wines that were displayed and tasted the other day. These are not words, they are grapes which have been made into wines of distinction.
Dealing with a ballroom containing more than 35 exhibitors’ tables with in excess of 130 wines and brandies requires an organizing principle. I chose white wines because they were the wines I first learned about as an undergraduate years ago.
I tasted Albarino, Verdejo, a Verdejo-Sauvignon Blanc blend, Viura (Macabeo), Xarello and Parellada wines. Among more than 20 these are some highlights.
Freixenet Vionta Albarino 2003 ($18.00) from Rias Baixas in Galicia (100% Albarino) is a lively, white wine. Unfortunately, no fresh oysters or other shellfish were available because it would be a great pairing with this wine. I have also enjoyed wines of this variety as a refreshing drink on a warm summer day or evening.
Bodegas Aura Verdejo 2003 ($18.00) in Rueda has a very interesting white wine (blended 98% Verdejo and 2% Sauvignon Blanc). This wine is a very light yellow in color with pear and apple fragrances. It would be great as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to fish, shellfish or a Spanish cheese such as Mahon.
Another interesting wine is Castillo Perelada Blanc Pescador N.V.($8.00), from Emporda-Costa Brava (Macabeo 50-60%, Parellada 20-25%, Xarello 20-25%). There is a nice bonus, which increases its desirability as an aperitif. It has “petillant,” a fine, natural sparkle, which reminds of the gentle “spritz” of a young Mosel. It is made from the grapes used for Cava production and would be a nice drink before dinner. Aptly, it would be delicious with a seafood course. After all, it is named White Fisherman in Catalan, the language of the area of its origin.
For reds, Tempranillo and Tempranillo blends were my focus but time was running short. I only tasted a few but they all were characteristic of Tempranillo, full of fruit and with a discernible connection to the earth in which the grapes had grown. This is the classic red grape variety indigenous to Spain.
Marques de Riscal Reserva 1999 Rioja ($16.99) (Tempranillo) is my idea of Rioja. Rich red in color with fruit and earth notes that make Rioja so enjoyable in contrast to wines, which seem to be made from grapes that never were connected to the land. Lamb and beef are ideal pairings for this wine.
Vina Mayor Reserva 1999 Ribera Del Duero ($18.00) (Tempranillo) was rich in color and full of taste of fruit and the earth. This is a wine for hearty meats eaten on fall and winter evenings.
I also liked Penascal Tempranillo 2001 ($8.00) from Castilla y Leon. It would be enjoyable with Serrano ham, grilled meats or a tomato sauce on pasta. This could be your everyday red.
Of course, Tempranillo is not the only red grape grown in Spain. One representative example is Castillo Perelada Tinto Crianza 2001 ($9.99) (Garnacha, Carinena and Tempranillo percentages not specified). Light meat dishes and young Manchego cheese would pair well with this wine.
A visit to a Spanish restaurant or wine tasting would seem wasted without a little taste of Sherry. Among my favorites is Manzanilla, a light sherry. At this tasting it was Domecq’s Manzanilla N.V. ($14.99). This wine is drunk chilled. It is said that this bottling is made from Palomino grapes grown near the sea and has a hint of its own “briny” taste to it. Green brined Sevillana olives are a good pairing with it.
Clock ticking toward the end of the trade tasting, I made for another sherry table because I wanted to try some Pedro Ximenez , which I have enjoyed as an after dinner drink or with a fruit dessert. Sure enough there was some and the company’s representative, although surprised at my request, poured it for me. It was Sandeman Twenty-Year Old Royal Ambrosante Old Solera Pedro Ximenez ($24.99 375ml.) This is a rich, deep brown wine that is very sweet. An orange or cinnamon dessert goes great with it. It’s also a good companion to an espresso.
Overall, the wines I tasted would be welcome additions to my meals and entertaining. They would go with a broad variety of my favorite dishes -- light seafood dishes, spicy Asian foods and even strongly flavored lamb and beef. Many of them would be a good drink at other times as well.
Look for Spanish wines. They are good tasting and good values as well. They are well worth it.
Mike Petersen is an attorney employed at the state capitol who travels whenever he can to try new foods and wines in California and Europe. He especially enjoys cooking and eating Italian, Spanish, French, German and other dishes that he has sampled with the locals here and abroad. Mike is a founder and chair of Mr. P’s Wine Club, a no-load wine club whose members love trying new wines and foods. He also searches for Chicago-style, kosher hot dogs wherever he may be.
Albarino, Verdejo, Viura, Xarel-lo, Macobeo--what do they mean? How can one deal with all of these new terms? Turn to the Web? Call somebody? Consult The Encyclopedia of Wine? With a very small amount of effort the terms are found to be varieties of white Spanish wine grapes. The age of the Internet wins.
The lack of familiarity of many of us with Spanish wines and wine terminology is a concern of the organizers and the people representing these wines at a recent trade tasting. You have an excellent product, which stands on its own quite well, but how do you explain it or provide a point of familiarity to your audience? Just confront it by addressing at the outset. The organizers provide a glossary in the notebook that lists the wines and foods that will be served. Albarino: “Grape grown in Galicia’s Rias Baixas D. O. used to produce aromatic dry white wine, often compared to an Alsace Riesling.” (D.O. is akin to the French and Italian terms “Appellation Controlée” and “Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita.”) More precisely, “D.O.” is “Denominacion de Origen.” [The] “Spanish quality control system. Each region is governed by boundaries of the region, grape varieties, maximum yields, alcoholic strength and other limitations pertaining to the district.”
To continue in this vein would do a great injustice to the Spanish wines that were displayed and tasted the other day. These are not words, they are grapes which have been made into wines of distinction.
Dealing with a ballroom containing more than 35 exhibitors’ tables with in excess of 130 wines and brandies requires an organizing principle. I chose white wines because they were the wines I first learned about as an undergraduate years ago.
I tasted Albarino, Verdejo, a Verdejo-Sauvignon Blanc blend, Viura (Macabeo), Xarello and Parellada wines. Among more than 20 these are some highlights.
Freixenet Vionta Albarino 2003 ($18.00) from Rias Baixas in Galicia (100% Albarino) is a lively, white wine. Unfortunately, no fresh oysters or other shellfish were available because it would be a great pairing with this wine. I have also enjoyed wines of this variety as a refreshing drink on a warm summer day or evening.
Bodegas Aura Verdejo 2003 ($18.00) in Rueda has a very interesting white wine (blended 98% Verdejo and 2% Sauvignon Blanc). This wine is a very light yellow in color with pear and apple fragrances. It would be great as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to fish, shellfish or a Spanish cheese such as Mahon.
Another interesting wine is Castillo Perelada Blanc Pescador N.V.($8.00), from Emporda-Costa Brava (Macabeo 50-60%, Parellada 20-25%, Xarello 20-25%). There is a nice bonus, which increases its desirability as an aperitif. It has “petillant,” a fine, natural sparkle, which reminds of the gentle “spritz” of a young Mosel. It is made from the grapes used for Cava production and would be a nice drink before dinner. Aptly, it would be delicious with a seafood course. After all, it is named White Fisherman in Catalan, the language of the area of its origin.
For reds, Tempranillo and Tempranillo blends were my focus but time was running short. I only tasted a few but they all were characteristic of Tempranillo, full of fruit and with a discernible connection to the earth in which the grapes had grown. This is the classic red grape variety indigenous to Spain.
Marques de Riscal Reserva 1999 Rioja ($16.99) (Tempranillo) is my idea of Rioja. Rich red in color with fruit and earth notes that make Rioja so enjoyable in contrast to wines, which seem to be made from grapes that never were connected to the land. Lamb and beef are ideal pairings for this wine.
Vina Mayor Reserva 1999 Ribera Del Duero ($18.00) (Tempranillo) was rich in color and full of taste of fruit and the earth. This is a wine for hearty meats eaten on fall and winter evenings.
I also liked Penascal Tempranillo 2001 ($8.00) from Castilla y Leon. It would be enjoyable with Serrano ham, grilled meats or a tomato sauce on pasta. This could be your everyday red.
Of course, Tempranillo is not the only red grape grown in Spain. One representative example is Castillo Perelada Tinto Crianza 2001 ($9.99) (Garnacha, Carinena and Tempranillo percentages not specified). Light meat dishes and young Manchego cheese would pair well with this wine.
A visit to a Spanish restaurant or wine tasting would seem wasted without a little taste of Sherry. Among my favorites is Manzanilla, a light sherry. At this tasting it was Domecq’s Manzanilla N.V. ($14.99). This wine is drunk chilled. It is said that this bottling is made from Palomino grapes grown near the sea and has a hint of its own “briny” taste to it. Green brined Sevillana olives are a good pairing with it.
Clock ticking toward the end of the trade tasting, I made for another sherry table because I wanted to try some Pedro Ximenez , which I have enjoyed as an after dinner drink or with a fruit dessert. Sure enough there was some and the company’s representative, although surprised at my request, poured it for me. It was Sandeman Twenty-Year Old Royal Ambrosante Old Solera Pedro Ximenez ($24.99 375ml.) This is a rich, deep brown wine that is very sweet. An orange or cinnamon dessert goes great with it. It’s also a good companion to an espresso.
Overall, the wines I tasted would be welcome additions to my meals and entertaining. They would go with a broad variety of my favorite dishes -- light seafood dishes, spicy Asian foods and even strongly flavored lamb and beef. Many of them would be a good drink at other times as well.
Look for Spanish wines. They are good tasting and good values as well. They are well worth it.
Mike Petersen is an attorney employed at the state capitol who travels whenever he can to try new foods and wines in California and Europe. He especially enjoys cooking and eating Italian, Spanish, French, German and other dishes that he has sampled with the locals here and abroad. Mike is a founder and chair of Mr. P’s Wine Club, a no-load wine club whose members love trying new wines and foods. He also searches for Chicago-style, kosher hot dogs wherever he may be.