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All in the Family for California Winemakers at Fall Tasting
http://californiawineandfood.com/articles/71/1/All-in-the-Family-for-California-Winemakers-at-Fall-Tasting/Page1.html
Marianne Lucchesi Hamilton
 
By Marianne Lucchesi Hamilton
Published on 01/1/2001
 

California wine country. For most, the phrase conjures up images of miles of pastoral vineyards in Napa and Sonoma. But how about Grass Valley? Oakland? Santa Monica? Hopland?

Yes, Virginia, California’s “other” wine country has many offerings worth a second (and a third, and fourth) look. As wine-trade insiders are reminded each year at the Family Winemakers of California (FWC) tasting, there are few areas in the state that do not produce some terrific wines.


All in the Family for California Winemakers at Fall Tasting
California wine country. For most, the phrase conjures up images of miles of pastoral vineyards in Napa and Sonoma. But how about Grass Valley? Oakland? Santa Monica? Hopland?

Yes, Virginia, California’s “other” wine country has many offerings worth a second (and a third, and fourth) look. As wine-trade insiders are reminded each year at the Family Winemakers of California (FWC) tasting, there are few areas in the state that do not produce some terrific wines.

The 2004 FWC event, held at Fort Mason Center in San Francisco on November 7th and 8th, was no exception. Over 400 independent vintners were on hand to display (and pour) their wares, representing an eclectic mix of locations and winemaking styles.

Sure, the “marquee” producers (Cain, Kendall-Jackson, Grgich Hills, Gundlach Bundschu, Mondavi, etc.) were there, showing off the wines that justifiably have earned them “top shelf” status at your local supermarket and wine retailer. But as always, the event was more about the smaller, boutique-style wineries. For many of these vintners (some of whom have only been in operation a short time), the FWC event is one of few avenues available to develop business partnerships with wine buyers.

Choosing to focus on consumers the first day and the wine trade the second, the FWC threw its doors open to thousands of individual wine lovers on Sunday. Those who sniffed and sipped their way to new favorites were free to place orders directly from the wineries at the show.

Monday’s pourings were limited exclusively to the wine-buying trade. Side by side with the “name” wineries were such gems as Napa’s Laird Family Estate, which was proudly uncorking its 2001 Cold Creek Ranch Chardonnay and 2001 Carneros Chardonnay. With only 2,000 acres of available growing space, Laird’s bottlings are fairly limited (340 cases for the Cold Creek, 1,000 cases for the Carneros each year). But these beautifully-crafted Chards are well worth the search.
Not Your Average Vino

Michael Leven, formerly a master winemaker at Glen Ellen, Beaulieu, and Kendall-Jackson, and now helming day-to-day operations at Mariposa Wine Company offered tastes of his “artisnal” wines – or what he laughingly refers to as “odd-ball blends.” Pouring out one of Mariposa’s Carmichael brands, Leven noted he loves to create unique tastes based on less mainstream varietals, including Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, and Syrah. His 2001 Monterey County Grigio e Bianco, which combines Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay grapes, is perfect for a light Sunday afternoon meal, enjoyed pool-side or on a patio under the California sun.

Over at the Four Vines booth, self-proclaimed “ZinBitch” Susan Mahler greeted attendees with sips of her intriguingly titled 2002 Zinfandels, including The Biker (Paso Robles), The Maverick (Amador County), and The Sophisticate (Sonoma County). Four Vines’ 2002 syrahs also earned high marks from the assemblage.
Small Wineries, Big Tastes

Appropriately enough, Silver Mountain Vineyards was eagerly anticipating its silver anniversary (to be celebrated at its Santa Cruz Mountains site on November 20th). While savoring a sip of his 2001 estate bottled Chardonnay, owner Jerold O’Brien revealed that he’s just opened a full-time tasting room in Monterey’s Cannery Row. Look for Silver Mountain’s wines to complement the cuisine at the Shadowbrook’s Symphony Dinner on December 14th in Santa Cruz.

Speaking of Grass Valley … Lucchesi Vineyards and Winery (no relation to the author) ably represented Nevada County, giving attendees a look at (and taste of) its 2002 Cab, Syrah, and Merlot. If you’re more inclined to think of Grass Valley as “that place you pass on the way to Tahoe,” and an unlikely spot for grapegrowing, think again. Owners Mario and Linda Clough began planting their vineyard in 1999, and officially hung out their shingle in 2002. Their “View Forever Vineyard” now encompasses prized acreage from the Sierras to Sacramento, and turns out world-class wines.
Marvelous Meads

On a more unusual note, Heidrun Meadery located near the Oregon border in tiny Arcata, drew devotees and the curious in equal numbers. OK, so Heidrun wasn’t pouring conventional wines…but their exotic range of meads (wines made from honey instead of grapes) offered a welcome dessert-like option for those who’d been tasting for hours. With concoctions based on everything from alfalfa and orange blossoms to avocados, eucalyptus, and clover, and methode champenoise and bottle-fermented varietals to chooses from, Heidrun offers wine-lovers seeking “something different” a number of very interesting alternatives.
Wine, Women, Cheese, and Chocolate

From this author’s perspective, the highlight of the tasting was a chance encounter just before we called it a day. Heading out the door, we ran into a pair of ladies who seemed to be having a gloriously good time … and as it turn out, that’s their stock in trade. Founders of “Wild Women on Wine” (http://www.wildwomenonwine.com) and FWC sponsors Shanin and Cathy were joyfully handing out literature, and encouraging women (and the men who love them) to join them in celebrating women, wine, cheese, and chocolate. Since I personally regard the latter three as the most important food groups, I was ready to become a life member on the spot. Visit their website to find out about launching a chapter in your area … then uncork the cab, unwrap the Godiva, and have a celebration of your own.

On next year’s FWC calendar are the 3/28 Southern California Trade Tasting at the Pasadena Convention Center, and the 8/22 San Francisco Trade Tasting, to be held again at Fort Mason Center.