The world of wine doesn’t lack for competitions. In the United States there are many. If a winery enters often enough, even its most pedestrian effort will receive an accolade from somebody.

But there are competitions and then there are competitions.

Tom Selfridge and Warren Winiarski

Last week Allen Gibbons, Executive Director of the International Wine & Spirits Competition (IWSC), flew from London to acknowledge a handful of North American vintners. In ceremonies preceding lunch at Pres a Vi in San Francisco, he presented gold medals from the 2007 judging to representatives of three California wineries and one from Canada . The competition, which was founded in 1969, judges wines, spirits and liqueurs from around the world in a rigorous, blind-tasting format.

Some of the most prestigious names in wine are on the list of those who’ve served an annual term as president of the organization. As past presidents, these leaders take designation as “vice presidents” and continue to serve as an informal group of ambassadors. Actually, two of these former IWSC presidents, Anthony von Mandl of Mission Hill Family Estates in Canada, and Warren Winiarski of Stags Leap Wine Cellars in the Napa Valley, were in attendance at the July 19th event. Also on the scene was Gina Gallo, who is the current president of the organization.

Gibbons said “We set a very high standard for all our medal winners at IWSC . . . the (judging) panels offer a breadth of technical winemaking knowledge through to genuinely representing consumer opinion.

“USA wine exports were up in value by 30% in 2006 over the year previous and we believe that endeavours in the international competition market show a determination to be recognized for producing the very best, whether as a major corporation or a tiny boutique winery. Both the American wine industry and that of Canada well deserve respect and recognition for their prowess.”

Awards presented for United States efforts were:

Gold (Best in Class)

Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2004 – E & J Gallo
Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Gold

Stags Leap Wine Cellars SLV Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Stags Leap Cask 23 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

And for Canadian efforts:

Gold (Best in Class)

Stoney Ridge Cellars Cabernet Franc Icewine 2005
Inniskillin Riesling Icewine 2005
Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Riesling Icewine 2005
AP Signature Series Vidal Icewine 2005

Gold

Jackson-Triggs Vintners Proprietors Reserve Riesling Icewine 2005

Also, finalists for the overall best wine producers in both countries were announced. The winners will be declared at a banquet in London on November 6th, 2007.

From the USA:

Beam Wine Estates
FGL Wine Estates
Pernod Ricard USA
The Hess Collection
Stags Leap Wine Cellars

From Canada:

Stoney Ridge Cellars
Royal de Maria
NK’Mip Cellars
Magnotta Winery
Jackson Triggs Vintners
Iniskillin Okanagan

Conversation at our luncheon table was informal and ranged from commentary on the wines poured to wine movies, the curious local politics of San Francisco and the unfortunate lack of a pub near Allen Gibbons’ home near Oxford.

Gina Gallo

Gina Gallo was pleased to have been lauded by the competition for the Gallo family’s Frei Brothers Chardonnay accompanying our first course, but also liked her Laguna Chardonnay that was poured before the awards presentations. She related a story about her grandfather buying Gravenstein apples over the years from the Sonoma orchard situated on land that eventually became Gallo’s Laguna Vineyard. Her grandmother made pies from this bounty and even after the conversion to vineyard, there was a fringe of apple trees left around the perimeter of the property to ensure her supply.

The Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon came from Mt. Veeder at the southern end of the Napa Valley. “Grapes (have been grown) up there since the 1860s,” said winery president Tom Selfridge, who explained that the relatively high elevation (about 2,000 feet) of such vineyards yields grapes that are more intense and distinctive. “I think sense of place is going to be (more and more of an issue) for all our wines,” he commented.

Warren Winiarski discussed the geological formation of the Stags Leap Appellation, which is his part of the Napa Valley and the source of the SLV Cabernet Sauvignon. His “fire and water” explanation of the resultant terroir was brilliant, but would only suffer if I attempted to restate it.

The epochal 1976 wine tasting in which Warren’s upstart Cabernet bested the field of other California Cabs and French Bordeaux has already been the subject of a book (“Judgement of Paris”) and now two movies are in the works. When asked if he would play himself in a screen version, Warren replied that a much younger man would be cast (after all, the event was three decades ago). I said I hoped Hollywood would favor him by finding a handsome young actor, which Warren seemed to think a fine idea. A few days later I read that George Clooney, who would seem to qualify, was under consideration for the role.

Also at the table was Liubomir Popovici, the winemaker at Canada’s Stoney Ridge Cellars. Unfortunately, his winning Cabernet Franc Icewine didn’t make it to the restaurant, but we did enjoy a Mission Hill Vineyards Riesling Icewine that was a delightful substitute. Anthony van Mandl said his icewines didn’t always come from grapes affected by botrytis, a condition that usually yields lends a characteristic apricot character. Nevertheless, it was a lovely wine and accompanied the dessert very well.

Filet and Foie Gras

By happy circumstance, this day marked my second visit to this restaurant for a winery luncheon in as many weeks. The kitchen performed admirably on both occasions.

international
wine & spirit
competition

Thursday July 19 2007

1st Course

Hawaiian Ono Served teridito style, blood orange oil, micro shiso and anju pepper aioli

Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2004

2nd Course

California Lamb Chop Ratatouille, cippolini onions and rosemary

Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

3rd Course

Petite Filet Mignon Foie gras, chantrelles and peas

Stags Leap Wine Cellars, SLV Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Dessert

Warm Financer With poached apricots, sabayon and lemonn verbena glacé

Mission Hill Five Vineyards Riesling Icewine 2005